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THINGS TO DO | PLACES TO SEE
Away from the hustle & bustle of routine life - Ranikhet-
Tranquil & Enchanting
Ranikhet’s tranquil environs come as a surprise to visitors
expecting the hustle usually associated with other prominent Raj-era
hill stations. No pony rides. No screechy, speeding cars. And,
thankfully as yet, no McDonald’s. Just a network of tar roads
that snake through the mountains, dotted with 130 Tudor
cottages, army barracks, a dozen church buildings, army parade
grounds, a golf course, a clubhouse, heritage hotels, an orchard
garden and a cramped local market.
So be adventurous, try out the road and forest treks mapped by
the administration (look for green-yellow info boards detailing
various routes), spot birds, drive down to nearby nature spots
and heritage towns, indulge in a game of golf, tennis or
billiards or best of all, sit back and gaze on the vista of
soaring pine trees blessed by the might of the snow-capped Kamet,
Nanda Devi, Trishul and Chaukhamba peaks beyond.
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Detail Map - Click to Zoom |
A paradise for walkers
Ranikhet is best experienced walking along its lanes or
hiking through its forest. Carry binoculars: you may just
spot the Great Himalayan whistling thrush, scarlet minivet,
Himalayan tree pie, red-billed long tailed blue magpie,
flying squirrel, a troupe of monkeys, barking deer, or even
a leopard. The road walks can also be done by car, but
frankly, it’s only half the fun.
If you take the Mall Road, you can take a leisurely walk
from Nar Singh Ground (NSG) via Ranikhet Club or if you head
towards Chaubatia (5 km). The roadsides here are
thoughtfully provided with wooden benches where you can rest
your feet as you explore the twin cantonment towns of
Ranikhet-Chaubatia.
The winding route from behind the Army Holiday Home to the
AMU Guest House is a peaceful, secluded path. The trek up
from the Mall towards this same guest house is another
pleasant walk, along which you can see many old British
bungalows. Another option is the path 1 km south of the
Mount Pleasant. You can walk up to the Jhula Devi Temple and
continue to the orchards of Chaubatia, then trudge another 4
km along the top of a ridge to the artificial lake, Bhalu
Dam.
Shorter
treks would include stretches between Ranikhet Club and
Officers Mess and Mount Pleasant to Jhula Devi Temple
(2˝km).
On the
other end of the town from NSG, you can move in the
direction of the Army Golf Course (6 km) and towards the
Kalika Temple and further on to Majkhali, known for the best
Himalayan sunset views in the area.
Forest hikes in Ranikhet can be accessed between Chaubatia
Orchards walking north towards Holm Farm (2 km), and between
Chaubatia walking south towards Bhalu Dam (round-trip 5 km).
Gods own
abode
Ranikhet has a number of temples strewn across the
cantonment but the two most venerated by the community are
the Jhula Devi Temple, whose power of fulfilling wishes can
be gauged from the number of bells that have been offered
here in thanksgiving, and the Kalika Devi Temple, the shrine
of the principle deity of the Kumaon Regiment that is
headquartered here. Besides the temples, Ranikhet has a
dozen-odd Anglican churches most of which have been
converted into army seminar halls or, as in the case of the
Methodist Church above NSG, into a weaving centre for army
wives and widows. A few of them such as St Michael’s Church
(Sunday service from 11 am-noon) in Chaubatia and St
Martin’s Church near Rai Estate are still fully functional.
KRC Museum
A little path snakes up towards the Kumaon Regimental Centre
grounds from Ranikhet's main road. The KRC Museum displays
memorabilia from the wars that the regiment has fought.
India's first Param Vir Chakra was awarded to Major Somnath
Sharma of this very regiment. The Mankameshwar Temple
maintained by the KRC is en route. The KRC widows'
organisation runs a weaving factory near the Nar Singh
Stadium parade ground, just before the KRC Museum, which is
housed in an old church with a high, vaulted ceiling and
stained glass windows. It's worth a visit just to see the
women working at their looms in such beautiful surroundings.
Chaubatia orchards and Bhalu Dam
The cool climate of the Himalayas and the soil of Kumaon
make a `fruitful' combination and the government orchards at
Chaubatia, 10 km to the south of Ranikhet, reap the
benefits. You can picnic in the garden here and buy seasonal
fruits from the orchards. Bhalu Dam, 3.2 km away, supplies
Ranikhet with its water and is popular for fishing. Be sure,
however, to take permission from the District Forest Officer
before casting your rod. Permission can also be obtained
from the Fisheries Officer at Bhimtal, which you will pass
through en route to Ranikhet. |
The golf course
Originally laid as a cross-country track for army training,
Ranikhet’s green meadows around Upat and Kalika Devi Temple
were turned into a 9-hole golf course sometime around the
1920s. A game of golf here costs Rs 150, caddie and golf
club charges are extra. The rights of admission and play,
are however, at the discretion of the army.
Chillianaula
Situated not more than 4 km from the main market, along the
road going north-east from Shaitan Singh Ground, past the
Military Dairy and on the way to GD Birla School, is the
temple of the mystic, Haidakhan Wale Baba. The baba built
many temples at Haidakhan before he died in 1984. A follower
of Sanatan Dharam, the baba believed that the path to god
lay in love, truth and simplicity. A trust in his name here
runs a charity clinic, besides providing quarters to its
Indian and foreign followers.
AROUND RANIKHET
Sitlakhet (29 km)
Ranikhet and its secluded satellite forest khets (wooded
meadows) like Sitlakhet are a beautiful reminder of what
Kumaon’s temperate mixed-foliage forest must have been like
before it was chopped down to make way for new settlements.
To reach its beautiful Forest Rest House (Tel: 05962-244005;
Tariff: Rs 250-700, dorm Rs 100), take Ranikhet’s old road
to Almora (via Majkhali) and turn right at Kathpuria
Village. The Sitlakhet FRH is a 9 km narrow winding climb
from here. If you are staying overnight, make it a point to
do the hike to the Siyahi Devi Temple, 3 km away, which will
reward you with some spectacular views of the Himalaya and
the Katyuri Valley spread below.
Legends of Dwarahat
In the 6th century, Dwarahat was the epicentre of power of
the Katyuri and the Chand dynasties. Its eight 10th-12th
century temple complexes, reputedly sanctioned by Adi
Shankaracharya, lie scattered around the village like
well-preserved corpses upon which village women now dry
their carpets. Here, like in all temples of this period, the
stones are joined not with mortar but with iron links.
Someone has jazzed up the Badrinath Temple idol with
horrible blue bathroom tiles; and the Gurjardev Temple is a
pile of finely carved stone. The dark, fragrant interiors of
the Mrityunjaya Temple are loveliest. A few of these, now
under the protection of the ASI, can be accessed from the
main chowk of the town.
The hills are filled with stories and spirits. “This is the
site of Krishna’s Dwarka,” said Devin Singh, who took us
around Dwarahat. “They say that the Ramganga and Saryu
rivers were to meet at a confluence here, but the jealous
Kosi lied to both, claiming to each that the other would
jilt it. When the truth was discovered, the Ramganga and the
Saryu cursed the Kosi, saying that all rivers meet each
other, but you will wander alone. And that’s why the Kosi
peters out in the middle of nowhere, joined by no other
stream.”
Dwarahat
is 33 km north of Ranikhet along the Karnaprayag Highway.
Dunagiri (47 km)
A scenic 14-km drive from Dwarahat will take you to
Dunagiri, from where a climb up 364 steps will take you to
the 12th century Durga Temple. A further 2-hr hike (5 km)
from here will take you up to a flat meadow, Pandu Kholi, a
good place for a day picnic. Both spots offer amazing views
of the Himalaya.
Shopping
You can pick up some excellent quality woollen fabric (ideal
for jackets, kurtas and shirts) and Kumaoni shawls at very
reasonable rates. These can be had in the bazaar, but check
out the KRC Widows' Association factory. Ranikhet is famous
for tweed shawls which you can purchase at KMVN's Janjati
Vikas Nigam. Try the Kumaoni specialty bal-mithai from Mayur
Sweets. | |
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